October 1, 2013 - Telluride, Where the Odds are Good . . .

 . . . but the goods are odd . . . or so the saying goes here in Telluride where there are about 9 men to every 1 woman in this town.  But of those 9 men, most are odd.  Telluride, whose motto is "You're Civil Liberties are Protected in Telluride" attracts a specific type of individual.  Not just a ski bum, but one who wishes to live exactly as he wishes, unfettered by rules, regulations, and convention whether it be from society, the state, or a relationship.

Morning in Telluride

Views from Telluride

Rick and I sat outside the Coffee Beanery sipping our morning joe and eating a breakfast sandwiches observing this social phenomenon.  It was around 9:00 am when most people were on their way to work, but sitting on benches were three pony-tailed, scruffy, bearded, Telluride local men shooting the breeze.  During the course of the hour that we sat there, 4 -5 other men came and joined the conversation, none of them in an obvious hurry to get to work, if there was work to get to.  Based on their conversation these are intelligent individuals (with the gov't shutdown, politics seemed to dominate their discussion) who, by all appearances live hand-to-mouth.  Granted this is a seasonal town dependent on summer and winter recreation activities (and infusion of capital from the very rich - 2500 square foot house goes for 3.5 million in Telluride proper) to keep its economy rolling so it should not be surprising to see people at loose ends during the shoulder seasons.  However, what intrigues me is that it is the men who are obviously at loose ends.  Only one woman stopped by to join the gang, briefly, before she went about her business.

Once finished with our breakfast we leisurely strolled about the town as the business opened.  It was a clear morning so we didn't bother to do sunrise and with the temperature climbing into the 70's, and the ever-developing harsh light it was hard to get into the mood for fall colors.  Nonetheless, for old time sake we decided to drive Last Dollar road, a popular route for fall colors. 

Fall Colors Along Last Dollar Road

Views of the San Juans

With 8 miles of the road consisting of a single lane with its roadbed down to native rock and soil (more rock than soil) and the necessity to fiord a number of small streams, driving the road is not a light undertaking, but when the colors are in full force it is worth the effort.  I was not expecting great colors, but was glad to drive it for what is probably our last time to just say farewell to the road.  The road bid us a kind goodbye by permitting us to traverse its rocky surface without blowing out a tire . . . as has been done in the past.

Colorful Aspen Along Last Dollar

Afterwards, we took the gondola up to check out the mountain city as well as the views.  The mountain city, built for the skiers, was a ghost town.  A little eery to be frank and Rick and I agreed that during these in-between seasons, Telluride proper is the place to be.  In speaking with some of the business proprietors, we learned that even Telluride proper shuts down around mid-October and doesn't get rolling again until after Thanksgiving for the ski season.

The Town of Telluride from the Gondola

After the gondola ride, we roamed the streets again, now that the businesses were open, and picked up a souvenir of planters for the back patio and then headed back to the hotel to clean up for dinner. 

We first stopped at the Hotel Sheridan, a Victorian styled hotel, for drinks at the bar, and then headed down to La Marmotte, a nouveau French cuisine restaurant.  Small and intimate was its setting and the service excellent and the food delicious.  The menu was prixe fixed, a pretty good deal for three course.  Rick and I shared the braised short ribs and the coq au vin.  For starters we shared the French onion soup and the seared scallops in a tomato truffle relish.  Dessert was vanilla creme brulee and chocolate pudding.  It was all delicious and got us talking about the much anticipated fall and winter weather and yummy comfort dishes that we love to prepare. 

The Tiny Kitchen of La Marmotte

The fine dining also got us thinking about an upcoming visit from Misty and Geert.  They are in town for only a couple of days and Rick and I struggled to identify the one restaurant that provided the qintessential Portland experience a great food, unique flavor combinations, small and intimate atmosphere, and just a bit funky.

Not ready to end the meal, we retired to the cozy bar and each of us savored a finger of scotch.  There we learned that La Marmotte means "marmot" or the alpine critter also known as a Whistle Pig.  We asked the owner why the restaurant was named after a large rodent.  Marmots are actually cute and endearing creatures that seem to spend much of their time sunning themselves on rocks in the chilly alpine air, but we couldn't figure out the connection to fine dining.  The owner replied that the previous proprietor selected the name because the word for marmot presents is easily recognizable regardless of the language.  I guess that is good for business in that it is relatively easy to remember.

La Marmotte's Cozy Bar

Reluctantly we departed "The Marmot" and made our way back to the hotel, but not before stopping at a liquor store, just across the street, to check out the wine selection . . . just for future reference.  They had an impressively diverse and fine collection of wines, inlcuding some not-so-easy-to-find ones that Rick was tempted to purchase.  However, we escaped without lightening our bank accounts, but not before we saw the bartender and owner of La Marmotte stop in, independently, to purchase a needed bottle of liquor. 

The meal was a great end to the trip.  Rick and I decided to head back early given that there just wasn't the color to warrant staying the full amount of time we had planned.  I wish that we had better luck but I came to realize that he and I enjoyed our time together more when we were eating well and enjoying the bed in a comfortable hotel than when we were out camping.  Granted, when the conditions come together to make for a good fall colors outing (cool temperatures, good color, good lighting conditions), NOTHING is better than that.  But nowadays, that happens so infrequently, (last successful trip was in 2009) that I really shouldn't bank on that experience as a means of connecting with Rick . . . and if I'm honest with myself, it isn't.  Over the years of our time in Portland we have come to connect in other ways, whether it be through our long weekends to Wild Spring in Port Orford or other nearby retreats, yard projects, wine tasting, cooking, and dining.  So I guess I'm OK with selling the truck.  I'll still be sorry to see it go but I don't view it as an end to the only means of Rick and my relating to each other.  Rather it is more of just a transition or evolution of the methods by which we relate.

September 29, 2013 - Sunset with a Side of Funnel Cake

The "Castle" on Ohio Pass

It WAS a cold night.  Got down to the mid-20's.  Managed to sleep but don't think my feet ever got warm despite all my protective measures.  Crawled out at 6:00 and made our way to the beaver ponds at Horse Park to shoot sunrise.  Nothing spectacular.  We then made our way down the pass, taking a quick side trip along Ohio Pass road so that I could check out the formation called "the Castle".  Aptly named as you can see from the photo.

We then made our way to Crested Butte for some of that good "Camp 4 Coffee" coffee.  We had breakfast at Izzy's.  A cute little shack that serves phenomenal bagel sandwiches.  I had the classic (egg, lettuce, onion, tomato, mayo and mustard with avacado) and Rick had a cinnamon bun.  Met up with Jimmy and Brent and compared notes again and then we took off for Silverjack Reservoir and Owl Creek Pass.

Scrub Oak Makes for Vibrant Fall Tapestry

Views Heading into Silverjack

Silverjack Reservoir had some good color in the scrub oak but the aspen were green.  I love the mottled mosaic of the oak so took a few shots but for the most part there was nothing inspiring.  Over Owl Creek Pass and into the Umcompaghre RIver valley he aspen were even more green.  We were greeted with some nice views of the San Juans but without the gold of the aspen in the foreground it was a little hard to get inspired.

Intimate Fall Scene Along Silverjack

We hit US 550 and turned south to Ridgeway and then onto the cute little mountain town of Ouray.  Heard there was some good color on Red Mountain Pass and Ironton, just south of Ouray so we drove on through and up the pass.  There was indeed some good color but we were seeing it in the harshness of mid-day light so we just took note and decided to check it out tomorrow morning.

The Quaint Victorian Town of Silverton

Both Rick and I were getting pretty tired so once over the pass and into Silverton we stopped for a much needed nap at Mineral Springs Campground.   Refreshed, we toured the two main drags of Silverton, a quaint but rugged Victorian mining town where I happened upon a store that sells just funnel cakes!  Very hard to find those west of the Mississippi, so, despite my being somewaht full from snacking all day, I decided that I could not let this opportunity pass and had a funnel cake topped with powdered sugar.  Oh sweet goodness.  An aside here, noticed that a great number of Colorado establishments serve polenta fries.  Haven't tried them to see how they compare to the ones at DeCarli's in Portland.  Just thought it interesting how common they are.

Mt. Snowdon and Little Molas Lake

Little Molas Lake and the Weimenuche

We then headed up to Molas Pass, between Silverton and Durango, to set up for sunset. This pass gives you great views of the San Juans and the Weimenuche.  Met up with the guys including Darren Kilgore!  So great to see our Canada photo-touring buddy again.  While we decided to set up at Little Molas Lake they went on to an overlook that provides good views of the Weimenuche Mountains.

At Long Last, a Colorful Sunset

Sunset looked promising.  Clouds over Mt. Snowden in the southeast, somewhat clear skies to the west.  Pretty Little Molas lake in the foreground with some nice willows and grasses.  It was a really pretty composition regardless of the sky, but what sweetness it was to get some color  It wasn't perfect but it was pretty damn close.  Rick was pretty happy, which you can tell when he says he thinks he got some "good" shots.

Fiery Sky

Afterwards we met up with the guys again and camped down at Mineral Springs Campground.  It was a little chilly but we stayed up until 10:00 reliving the antics of past trips and playing audience to Brent's i-pad slide show.  Afer a dinner of tortellini, wine, and chocolate, and good conversation with great people, we bundled up (mid-20's again) and went to bed with stomachs satiated and hearts full.

September 30, 2013 - Hello Telluride

Mmm, good breakfast

With two foot-warmers in each down bootie and four layers on my upper body I slept as snug as a bug in a rug until 6:30!  We were the first up and out and headed into Silverton for what turned out to be a delicious breakfast of eggs, sausage, hashbrowns, and fry bread at Matties and Maud's, a local diner joint tricked out with purple vinyl chairs and pandora playing the Andrew Lloyed Weber Station.  After getting a coffee at Nimbus we headed back north to Ironton and Ouray to see what we might see.

Views from Red Mountain Pass

The color coming over Red Mountain Pass was indeed glorious in the mid-morning light.  Though the aspen were dinged a bit by the recent hard frost, the mountain sides just glowed with yellow.  Though the area did not have the dramatic background as Kebler Pass, it was still pretty stunning.

Idyllic Ouray

We stopped in the historic mining district of Ironton where I took a few shots and then we proceeded on down to the Town of Ouray.  Where we did a quick walk-about to check out the stores along mainstreet.  It is  a cute Victorian town whose economy was once based on mining but is not dependent primarily on tourism.

Another View from Red Mt Pass

From Ouray we headed up to Ridgway and then west to check out the colors along the county roads heading into the San Juans.  Unfortunately it was clear before we went to far that the aspen were only just beginning to change.  That combined with the unseasonably warm temperatures and the potential threat of getting a flat on these roads (it has happened before but in this case there was little to no photographic return for the risk) we decided to take the main road to Telluride and scope out how things looked there.  After a quick bite and a nap along the San Miguel River, we headed south along Ophir Pass into the Lizardhead Wilderness down to the small Town of Rico.  Colors looked slightly better along the road here but still nothing too inspiring.

The Very Distinct Ophir Needles

Coming back north we saw that the south-facing slopes seemed to be ahead of the rest of the slopes in terms of changing colors but even they weren't far enough along.  We headed into Telluride to check into the Hotel Telluride.  We cleaned up and had cocktails at "There" and dinner at 221 South Oak.  The dinner was nothing remarkable but the cocktails at "There" were divine though a bit strong.

Not sure what tomorrow holds in store for us.  We may just head back or stick around a day if we can keep ourselves occupied.

September 28, 2013 - What a Difference a Day Makes

Woke up at 5:30 am to an 18 degree temperature, clear skies, and a fresh skiff of snow on the ground.  Thank the heavens that we did not camp out at Lost Lake last night.  We dressed warmly and headed out to try sunrise on Gothic Road at Gothic Mountain.

Gothic Mountain Sunrise

While photographing sunrise/sunset in socked in conditions is futile, sunrise/sunset photography in clear skies with no clouds is not much better.  Nonetheless we figured it was worth shot.   We knew we were at the right spot when we came upon of gaggle photographers on the banks of East River in front of Gothic Mountain.  The photography turned out to be a bit better than I had anticipated.  The river provided some nice foreground to Gothic Mountain and as I explored further up the road, I discovered the perfect beaver pond providing nice reflection of the mountain in all its colorful glory.  I also came across what looked like some bobcat tracks in the fresh snow.  Pretty cool.

Slade River Valley

After the shoot, we ran in to Rick's photog friend, Jimmy Gekas and a couple of his buddies, Max and Glen, also from San Diego, and chatted for a bit, comparing notes on the prospect of colors throughout the area before we went back to the hotel to check out.  We then went into Crested Butte to get a delicious coffee (Portland, you've got some serious competition) and breakfast sandwich at a small shack call "Camp 4 Coffee", sent the truck through its second car wash (it was so filthy from Kebler Pass, that even I couldn't stand it), and repair yet another fuse before heading up Slade River Road to see some more colors.

Fall Colors from Slade River Road

Clearly the cold temps and snow did some damage to the aspen as the colors of somewhat were more muted than yesterday and some were just plain brown, frozen dead.  Too bad but that's the breaks . . . and there was still a considerable amount of color.  We went back up Washington Gulch Road and then up again Kebler Pass to see what the cold weather did to those aspen.  Some stands were also affected, especially next to open areas, but there were still plenty of good-looking stands.

It's Pittsburgh . . . without the"h"

We then headed back to Crested Butte, where we were going to meet up with Jimmy, Max, and Glenn, and also Brent who was traveling out from Denver to begin his 9-day fall colors tour.  Rick and I sat outside at Brick Oven in 50 -degree temps (in the sun that is fairly warm) and drank a beer waiting for the others to show.  After all arrived, we visited a while and then took off for Kebler Pass, again, to shoot sunset at MP 11.  Despite the lack of clouds, we had some very interesting light so that it made even the huge stands of very green aspen look gold.  There was quie the cluster of photogs creating almost a carnival atmosphere.  Brent who I swear is only 2 degrees separated from knowing anyone saw familiar faces in the crowd and made introductions all around and it became quite the social event.

Sunset at MP 11 on Kebler Pass

Afterwards everyone headed back to Crested Butte, while Rick and I headed up to our camp site at Lost Lake.  We checked to make sure that we still had the site earlier that day and the host said he figured we didn't show because of yesterday's snowstorme.  Nonetheless he kept it reserved for us so we had a place to go.  After a campfire and some wine, we hunkered for what appeared to be another cold night.

September 27, 2013 - More Rain But Also Some Fall Color

After a yummy pizza dinner in Rifle, getting into Carbondale after dark, and driving up to our camp site on a rocky, rutted road to set ourselves up for a sunrise shoot of Mount Sopris, we collapsed into bed with hopes for better photography . . . only to have those hopes dashed as we heard the rain in the early morning.  By 5 am, out of concern for the road condition, we got up and headed out.  Glad we did because we slid a good portion of the way down, even after putting the truck in Low 4-wheel drive and the lowest gear possible.  The road being on a steep hillside made the descent quite exhilarating.

Bleary-eyed, frustrated, grubby, and just fed up, we made our way to our favorite coffee shop in Carbondale, Bonfire Coffee, to regroup and plan.  Bag it all and go home?  Hang around and hope for the best?  Go back up to Wyoming and the Beartooths?  After a few cups of coffee and some food, we decided that the best thing was to get a shower and see what the weather is like and go from there.

We headed south To Redstone where there is a USFS  campground that had solar showers with hot water.  While Rick was getting his shower I got chewed out by the campground host for using the campground without reservng a campground site.  Understandable, so I offered to reserve one of the many empty campsites and pay, but the host refused, simply saying that we should not do that anymore.  Understood, but don't you want a campground fee anyway?  Apparently not.

We moved on, clean but a little chagrined, and armed with the knowledge that today would be a rainy and snowy day.  Nonetheless we decided to plug away and began driving up McClure Pass toward Paonia, hoping that the pass had some color . . . which it didn't.  The aspen was green, green, green.  Also, the clouds rolled in.

Some Colorful Aspen in Snow on Kebler Pass

By the time we turned off onto Kebler Pass to make our way to Crested Butte there was a rain/snow mix.  On top of that, the roads were muddy and slick.  BIG sigh.  Despite the disappointment, Rick took it fairly well and decided to hang out for a couple of nights as the weather was suppose to clear that evening.  So we reserved a campground site at Lost Lake on Kebler Pass for two nights (had to leave a note and check on the host's doorstep as he was gone at the time and kept our fingers crossed that there would be no mix up like at Teton) and moved on toward Crested Butte through the mud and snow.

Fall Colors from Gothic Rd

Views from Gothic Road

When we got to Town, we decided to go check out the road to Gothic, recomended by one of Rick's photog friends, Jimmy, for fall colors.  We turned up the road and . . . lo and behold we had Fall Color and it was gorgeous!  As it was Friday the roads weren't too busy so we took our time going up the road to the small Town of Gothic, known for its Rocky Mountain Research Station.

The Rustic Town of Gothic at 10K ft elevation

Gothic Mountain to the southwest of the town and road is a striking formation with aspen color and the East River winding past it.  The clouds kept moving in and out carrying with them periodic snow squalls but, nonetheless, this had the potential to be a good sunrise spot.

Gothic Mountain from Washington Gulch Road

We then decided to explore the next drainage over, Washington Gulch, which showed us the opposite side of Gothic Mountain.  This side was even more striking in color thanks to not just the aspen but also the scrub oak so this turned into a possible sunset spot. 

By this time it was around 5:00 pm and we thought we had better make our way back to our campsite on Kebler Pass.  As we were getting ready to go, a snowstorm of considerable sized moved in, giving us cause to pause.  Did we really want to make our way up the pass, on an already muddy and slick mountain road, in the midst of a snowstorm? 

Some Pretty Fall Colors from Washington Gulch

Since Rick was doing the driving, the decision was primarily his but I wholeheartedly agreed with him when he said that he'd prefer not to make the journey and that we just get a hotel in town . . . which is exactly what we did.  We ended up staying at a very nice place called the Mountain Lodge Resort just up the hill fro Crested Butte proper.  It turned out to be a great treat as we ended up taking the shuttle bus (and old school bus painted in outrageous colors) into town for a delicious Italian dinner at Bachanale.  Yummy deep-fried Risotta balls, steak (for Rick), arugula/prosciutto/fontina flatbread pizza for me and a delicious olive oil flourless almond/orange torte with chocolate frosting, not to mention some very good wine pairings.  Took the shuttle back to the hotel and gratefully sank down into a warm comfortable bed.  For a day that started out so cruddy, it ended remarkably well.

September 26, 3013 - Decisions, Decisions

Morning at Oxbow Bend

Reflections at Oxbow Bend

It was cold last night.  Hoped the Chinese students made it through the night OK, it being their first time ever camping in the US.  I woke up a few times a little cold but managed to get back to sleep.  Learned later from Rick that, it got so cold that the windows to the cab were frozen open (yes we went to bed with open windows in 20 degree weather to allow for cross-ventilation) and he was worried that I was freezing to death.  Eventually, when the snow and associated cloud cover moved in, warming things up a bit, he was able to unstick the windows and close them.  When the alarm went off, I was actually warm and toasty, making getting up at 5:30 for sunrise a little difficult.

Oxbow Bend Reflections (again)

Nevertheless, up we got and off to Oxbow pullout we went where we witnessed, well, no stunning sunrise as the clouds had moved in once again.  However the waters at Oxbow were very still so I got some neat, moody, reflection shots.  The experience was also accompanied by elk bugling, the prehistoric call of sandhill cranes, cormorants fishing off the  banks of the Snake River . . .  and a gaggle of disappointed photographers trying to salvage something from the disappointing sunrise.

Moulton Barn near Teton National Park

Moody Morning in Jackson Hole

For breakfast, Rick and I headed into Jackson (in the midst of a snow squall) to eat at a wonderful bakery called "Persephone's".   We munched on homemade croissant breakfast sandwiches while deciding whether to stick around until Saturday when the weather is suppose to improve, or just head to Colorado after breakfast.  Not willing to give up the ghost, we decided to stick around until noon just in the off-chance that there is a miraculous break in the weather.  So we toured around a few back roads, got the truck filthy dirty, and after a brief break in the weather, when we caught a glimpse of the mountains only to be disappointed by yet another snowstorm, we decided to make a break for it and head for Colorado.  So with Rick's music mix and a full tank of gas we began to head south.  Carbondale, fall foliage colors, ready or not, here we come.

September 25, 2013 - I Know There is A Mountain Around Here Somewhere

Trumpeter Swan on Firehole River

Snow and Water Lilies

Woke up to socked-in, grey, cloudy skies so there was no sunrise that we could see.  Nonetheless , we got up and trekked out, just in case, but no luck.  However we took the opportunity to hang out with the pair of trumpeter swans we saw yesterday foraging in the Firehole River.  They hadn't budged from their location despite the bevy of photographers congregating around the pair.

Unique Landscapes of Geyser Basin

Old Faithful Inn (R. Dunn)

We headed back to the campground to fill up on water and make coffee but the rain started to come down pretty hard so we passed on the coffee and just checked out and headed south through the geyser basin to Old Faithful.  We made a couple of photography stops for the  geothermal features, got soaked, and then just headed south.  Just as we pulled into the Inn it started to snow.  We had breakfast at the Inn (Ambiance A-, food C), and then, taking advantage of the cellular access we checked in on our home e-mail and I worked on the blog until Old Faithful erupted.

Colorful Wetlands (R. Dunn)

We packed up, visited one more geothermal site, Biscuit Basin, and then made our way to the south entrance along the Lewis River and then, ultimately the Grand Tetons.  Along the Lewis River we came across some colorful wetlands that warranted a few photos.  Puzzled a few passers-by, wondering what we found so captivating.  If it isn't one of the sexy megafauna (or even a chipmunk) it isn't worth a second glance.  In response to an inquiry by one gentleman, I just extend my arm to the vibrant colors and then said "Shhh.  We're watching the fall colors.  Don't scare them."  He laughed, acknowledged my point, and took a few photos.

Shy Tetons

We then headed down to Teton National Park and as we entered the the Jackson Hole Valley we were greeted with clouds, clouds, and low-lying clouds.  Couldn't see one iota of a mountain; just a drained down reservoir.  If we hadn't known where we were, we would never have know what was hiding behind  all that vapor.  The one good thing was that there was some decent fall foliage color.  And so began the ongoing debate for the next couple of days.  Do we hang out in Teton where the color was good but the weather (and, consequently, the light) was and predicted to continue to be lousy for the next three days?  Or do we head down to Colorado where the weather was glorious but the fall foliage color was much delayed?

Tetons (R. Dunn)

As we debated, wonder of wonders but the clouds temporarily cleared so that we were able to get a view of those amazing mountains and snap a few documentary though decidedly unartistic photos.

Tetons and Snake River

Falls Colors at Oxbow Bend

At that point we decided we'd stick around for the night.  The potential for good photography, with the colors and the mountains, was so great, that it was worth one night's stay.  So we reserved a spot and Jenny Lake Campground and then toured the rather small National Park and got a few ideas of where we might get a decent sunrise photo, choosing the very popular Snake River Oxbow Pullout.

Camp site at Lake Jenny

We then returned to our campsite where we discovered that some visiting Chinese students had taken up residence in our spot.  After a little explanation and much apologizing from the students, they relocated.  Turns out they were taking a worldwind tour of the US - LA, Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, Teton, Yellowstone, Seattle, and Portland (for the tax free shopping).   We then settled in for a meal of chicken and rice, wine, and chocolate around a campfire as the temperatures plummeted from the 40's to, what I discovered the next day, to be the mid-20's.  Glad I wore my long-johns, polar-fleece, hat, and down booties to bed!